Waveriders

Waving goodbye!

2011-05-04T17:46:00.000-07:00

Waveriders has come to a shuddering stop since I discovered surf mats. So this is the last post and one in which I say goodbye to all you good folks who have taken the time to visit!
"May your life continue to provide bountiful opportunities to ride waves on whatever surf craft you might choose!"

A local rider on a local wave!

2011-04-05T03:51:00.000-07:00

Where? Those who know know and those who don't won't!

Are you serious?

2011-03-27T01:17:00.000-07:00

Yep, one of those rare pics that captures the seemingly impossible. Owen Wright just ripping the lip into little pieces!
Muchos Gracias Mr Sloane!

Jeeezus!

2011-02-28T01:11:00.000-08:00

Something very compelling about this image!

2011-01-28T16:58:00.000-08:00

Many thanks to Jason

Sometimes a vicarious experience is all there is!

2011-01-06T14:57:00.000-08:00

25 years ago, analogue film and left arm stuffed way into the face setting up for a total shacking! I have never been in this place but had to nab this great shot as I just love the light which only further adds to the impact of the image.
Thanks to Zog

2010-12-19T02:43:00.000-08:00

Ah there's the wave!

2010-12-10T01:10:00.000-08:00

Now let's get off this boat and go ride it.

Incredible! Believe it! A group of surfers braved the unknown and surfed pororoca of Sumatra in Indonesia.

Follow the following report:

The 'little' Big Bono

Everyone knows that Indonesia is home to the best waves of the ocean in the world, but is the soul of one surfer in the world knew that there could find the holes in tidal waves, as powerful as Pororoca Brazilian or the Chinese dragon?

YEP Frenchman Antony Colas led a team of 'boreriders "and found what appeared to be impossible.

- I found this incredible surge in the river in the jungle, which is neither in the list of fifty-five rivers listed by 'Tidal Bore Research Society' (www.tidalbore.info) - YEP Antony Colas

On the east side of Sumatra island, there is the 'Bono', as the inhabitants call Kampar River, in fact the phenomenon with a certain fear, which swallowed many lives since last year.

Although few details and the lack of tides, Eduardo Bage, the Franco-Brazilian longboarder pro, and Fabrice Colas Audoy and Patrick, both very experienced with the tidal bore of "Mascaret" in Dordogne, decided to explore the mysterious hole. Presumably thought that was very weak during the day, and that the 'Bono' should remain in breaking the range of 1 to 2 feet, whereas 'bono' by most of the night would stay at around 6 feet! Despite its supposedly low power, the 'Bono' day ended up generating a lot of energy to face 6 feet and 8 feet at its peak "epicenter". With several sections lasting a few tens of minutes and a peculiar walk which was recorded over the one hour mark, the 'Bono' also offered the first barrel ride on the picture!

However, the trip almost became a disaster when the second day, the two boats, which had been specially sent from Jakarta, had been cut with knives! Apparently, some people involved in forestry is not believed that we had only been surfing the 'Bono', and thought they were making comments to Greenpeace.
Only one of the two Zodiacs could be repaired properly. The ground wood was arrested on 3 to go to meet the waves 'Bono' of five heavy guys!

Fortunately, we were sitting in one of the best tropical woods in the world!
Anyway, we could go to the tidal waves, and teach some places to surf with the stand-ups, instead of local boats, canoes known as Sampan or Perahu. And remember, you're only 6 to 8 feet, local pilots say the boats in the winter 'bono' is large and can reach 12 to 15 feet tall!

Cheers ...

Antony "Yep" Colas

Old school

2010-12-06T15:21:00.000-08:00

On Sunday when we went to check the surf conditions and chose not to go in but to watch the rather large numbers scrabbling for a poor selection of waves. One of the horde stuck out as he was having a hell of a time getting on to any of the waves even though he was riding a blue longboard. Until the set wave of the day came through and he got a most satisfying ride I would think considering the conditions although the board seemed slow considering the size and power of the wave?
Yesterday, I discovered why from the rider himself, a visitor from Crescent Head, whilst preparing for another session on the longboard he had found discarded on the verge whilst in Perth. After checking with various house owners to ensure he was not going to be stealing it he found himself in possession of a board shaped in 1962 with an old style and quite small wedge fin. Normally a shortboard rider he had found he could not stop himself choosing the longboard instead.
I got a chance to check it out, unfortunately I did not have a camera on my person, but it is very much the same shape as the Greg Noll board in the pic but not quite as pretty. Overall it is quite narrow with all the meat in the board is at the back end and a long thin nose section. Rocker you ask? Nuh not really!
In the end I joined him for a fun session with a handful of others in better than it looked conditions on my new school old school 10' single fin shaped by local icon Warren (check out my new shoulders!) Thompson.

Want a lesson on the pop up........

2010-12-04T18:48:00.000-08:00

..... and a few other beautiful things?

Alaia Rob Machado by Riders-Match.

Surf Sister charging!

2010-11-25T21:28:00.000-08:00

On a great looking wave! Cowabunga!

Good Company!

2010-11-11T15:30:00.000-08:00

Yesterday we had the privilege of a pod of dolphins surfing with us for a good 40 minutes or so. I had up to six at a time flying along underneath me and then 2 or 3 would escort me back out to the peak dodging each other as they darted around in front of my longboard. There were quite a number of juveniles and they were in a playful and inquisitive mood leaping out of the water right next to me and breaching close by to have a good look too. Just wonderful particularly as it was just Michelle and myself out enjoying some little peeling rights in front of the clubhouse. Unfortunately, the up beat mood of the session was marred as Michelle has re-injured her foot in exactly the same way again and is back on crutches. She is very down on herself for being a very slow learner!

Walking the board!

2010-10-25T22:00:00.000-07:00

I have had the longboard out a fair bit lately due to a lack of swell mainly. As I mentioned in a previous post, I believe that my matting experience has quite markedly resulted in an improvement in my stand up board riding skills. For example, just in the last couple of sessions, I have pulled off some cranking bottom turns that I cannot remember having been able to complete so readily before and damn I am nailing the take off staying in the top of the wave, with plenty of time to leap gracefully (Ahem) to my feet more than I used to also.
Anyway, brimming with confidence, I have now started work on learning to properly cross step up and down the board rather than shuffling in my usual ungainly fashion. Ummm and it is not as easy as it looks. When I first tried it I just attempted to walk up the board as one normally does and it was straight off the side I tumbled. Then I realised that I had to maintain the angle of my feet, in particular, the starting foot, being the right as I stand normally. I have a long way to go, particularly in actually remembering to do it, but I am encouraged by my progress so far.

A better longboarder?

2010-10-25T20:52:00.000-07:00

The swell has been a little small in the last few days so I have had the 10' longboard out rather than a mat. I have been riding longboards for far longer than surf mats but the sessions this week have made me realise that mat riding has subtly contributed and, I believe, improved my longboarding in 3 specific ways.

1. I seem to be more highly sensitised to what the wave is doing and I think this is particularly to do with where the power is in the wave. Even though the board is hard and insensitive in comparison to a mat there is definitely an added awareness which is contributing to an even better longboarding experience with longer and more satisfying rides.

2. I have a new awareness of my positioning on the longboard and the effect this is having on it's interaction at any specific time with what the wave is doing again contributing to a better longboarding experience. Not surprising, I guess, as this is such a fundamental part of the mat riding experience.

3. Suddenly, I seem able to complete later take offs than I can remember being able to achieve before as mat riding seems to have taken my understanding of what is possible on the take off to a new level. For instance, I have really enjoyed gaining the confidence to delay the take off on a surf mat so as I am right at the top of the wave providing plenty of time to make the decision to either enjoy the rush of charging straight down or angling across high on the face of the wave. Now I knew of this already but I think it is my new awareness mentioned in points 1 & 2 that has allowed me to now apply that more successfully on a 10' single fin longboard.

I have always thought this..............

2010-10-18T20:30:00.000-07:00

.......and now it is confirmed! On the south coast of Australia, the power of our waves is unmatched almost anywhere else in the world. This excerpt is from an article relating to the development of a technology by a West Australian company Carnegie to harness wave energy to power hydro-electric turbines that they are hoping to commence here.

A cracking nose ride!

2010-10-10T00:36:00.001-07:00

A new blog devoted entirely to the surf mat!

2010-09-24T01:45:00.000-07:00

As riding a surf mat has basically taken over my wave riding life to such an extent that I write about little else, I have decided it is time to split off the surf mat related posts into their very own blog.

Way back in 1988..........

2010-09-20T19:06:00.000-07:00

............long before the current vogue, Dale Solomonson was thinking finless in this beautifully rendered design.

Many years later, in 2006, Carl Olsen actually built the board and it goes just fine.

2nd one here in WA within 3 months!

2010-08-17T04:03:00.000-07:00

The last attack was less than 50 kilometres away from here at Conspicuous Cliffs.
This time it was Gracetown again. So unfair that a small community, with such a lovely name, could be subjected to so much trauma. In 1996, 5 adults and 4 children were killed in a cliff collapse whilst watching an inter-school surf competition and there was an earlier shark attack back in 2004.
I have to say I do worry at times, when lying on a mat, that I look far more like a tasty seal than if I were on a surfboard. In reality though, if you happen to be in the wrong spot at the wrong time, it is probably completely immaterial.

More 'chopes

2010-08-13T03:47:00.000-07:00

and a guy who does have the skill and the guts to give it a shot on a bloody SUP for god's sake! Yeh I know Laird has been there before but ya don't get the wipe out shot!

'chopes!

2010-08-12T01:39:00.000-07:00

Well worth double clicking on to see the full size image which shows so clearly the setup at Teahupoo! Like many of those you can see sitting on the shoulder, it would be enough of a buzz to merely watch and wonder at those that have the ability and courage to ride it.

Incredible, truly incredible wave riding!

2010-08-07T21:16:00.000-07:00

I have seen quite a bit of Derek's work, but I have not seen those big sideways power slides before. Awesome! Enjoy!

Jet Skis - not happy!

2010-07-31T02:00:00.000-07:00

These guys have been hanging around for a few days and pissing off the local surf community and anybody else hoping to enjoy the tranquil beauty of the bay. Apparently they are from Kojonup and many of us just wish they would go back there. This is the main family beach of this area, and although they are around the bay a little but not enough, the noise they make is incessant and insidious. You can certainly hear how bad it is!
They were apparently also drinking on the beach which is again not appropriate considering the nature of the amenity.

Yes, we should share the ocean but I think there is a limit and hopefully the local council may chose to make some changes as I think they are going to hear about it.

Just for a little contrast.............

2010-07-14T16:43:00.000-07:00

.......whilst I was playing happily on my mats yesterday at the point in moderately sized waves this is what was happening a little further around the bay.........

............big ugly top to bottom close outs..........

............. following rapidly one after the other.......

with the occasional big barrel if you were game!

Fins can really cut you up!

2010-07-13T15:24:00.001-07:00

Considering last years ankle injury at a similar time of the year, an unbelievable incident just a week before the J-Bay round has seen Parko end up in hospital with as nasty a surfing injury as I have seen in a while.

He was riding this wave when he disappeared eventually popping up in the whitewater in agony apparently having been slashed by one of his fins resulting in this appalling and ugly look cut through to the bone.

He is in good hands though and confident he will make the Tahiti round.

There is definitely an OHS advantage for those of us who choose to ride a "Soft Machine"!

Out of towners!

2010-07-07T03:03:00.000-07:00

Never surfed here and it was certainly too big and shifty for me to consider today. Much bigger than what they look here with some being well over double overhead. But for these visitors, not a problem. I missed the wave of the day that included a fantastic and quite long stand up barrel!

My first Brown(Uh, that looks blue?)fish!

2010-06-30T16:20:00.000-07:00

It arrived yesterday and was made, along with a bunch of others, just before Gary left for Hawaii.

Fantasea Kneeboarding in Slo-Mo!

2010-06-29T23:08:00.000-07:00

The silent look and learn slow version and he still looks like he is flying!

Fantasea Kneeboarding!

2010-06-28T16:58:00.001-07:00

I was too knocked out, by this amazing footage of GG tearing it up from the 1980 surf classic Fantasea, to not put together a piece for all you kneeboarders out there. Enjoy!

Look and learn slo-mo version coming soon!

2010 WA State Longboard Championships

2010-06-27T16:01:00.000-07:00

3 events from the 2nd day of competition of the Denmark round.
Fairly crappy side shore conditions but some very reasonable rides from the Mens Over 35, Mens Over 55 & Open Ladies which features 3 talented local kids!

Never let one piece of equipment define you!

2010-06-18T15:59:00.000-07:00

I like that! Brian Keaulana speaking on a vid promoting C4 Waterman products, mainly SUPS of course, although they espouse having fun riding waves on all manner of wavecraft.

He also talks about the waterman creed of balance, strength, endurance and tradition not only in the water but in life too and this is defined perhaps, by his penchant for a little underwater running occasionally.

Do make sure you check out the river rapid riding in the 2nd vid. Good stuff!

SUPs? Well worth a try, so much fun, so versatile and the best favour you can do for your core muscles!

Ahhhhhh............!

2010-06-07T00:25:00.001-07:00

Finally we seem to be getting some decently working banks round here again.

For today, 'twas off the mat and on to Big Blue, upon which I was allowed to enjoy a very nice left in front of the currently closed inlet opening, where I recently and joyously spied a really strong rip working it's magic so as I could enjoy today. It was pretty similar to the pic above but without this guy's good looks and style!

A little further over on the next peak......... 30 or so hustling away whilst, where I was, just two of us and eventually for a while just meself! Yee ha!

As "One must ride waves whilst swells untwine", we went back to see if we could get another session, with me hoping to get some more time on the mat, but it was onshore and buggar all swell getting in.

Still, I can go back to work for the next 2 days fulfilled and ready for some more wave riding joy starting on Thursday again with a bit of luck!

Learning to Longboard?

2010-06-04T18:22:00.000-07:00

I came across the Longboard Clinic whilst researching the Astron Zot shaped by the irrepressible Geoff McCoy.

I was particularly impressed with the Longboard Clinics How To..... section.

Here is the lesson on how to hang five!

Nikon P100 high speed shots!

2010-05-22T22:07:00.000-07:00

I have made this series of shots into a little movie with a couple of stills at the end just to prove that Kieran can actually surf!

Kane blasting off the top!

2010-05-22T21:08:00.001-07:00

I love the track he has left in the wave wall behind him showing the speed he had generated before launching himself off the lip!

A big low had finally come through and the swell was already big, if a bit westerly, and on the way up!
A bit bitter and windy, Michelle and I decided today was a lay day but that it was worth having a look anyway as what better way to spend a bit of time than watching waves.
We were not surprised to find Kane out there.
The first time we came across this guy, he was on the way out in absolutely mammoth conditions at another local surf spot and we thought he might actually not get back in. Turns out he surfs it like that all the time and we needn't have worried!

These pics never give you a true idea of the conditions and too be truthful, so far within the protection of the point, the waves were not too big but out on the bay? Mayhem, which you can probably get some idea of in the shot above.

I reckon it will be getting in much more later on in the day and tomorrow too possibly although I would prefer it backed of a bit and lined up beautifully ready for me to surf before returning to work on Tuesday.

I managed to get a few good shots of Kane using my little Nikon P100 which boasts a 26 optical zoom and excellent high speed continuous shooting along with 1080HD video. A pretty awesome little camera for just over $500 AU!

Just a touch of digital zoom in some of these pics too hence the lack of quality.

I think the P100 did well to stop all the spray and movement in this considering it was hand held!

Hardcover Waveriders Volume 1

2010-05-21T20:52:00.000-07:00

Sometime ago I discovered that for a really very reasonable price one could acquire a hardcopy of one's blog from Blog2Print.

Just for interests sake, at the time, I ordered a digital copy of my Ramsnake blog.

But my beloved Michelle, who is concerned I might not live long enough to learn to ride a surf mat well, went ahead and ordered a hardcopy of her blog and a damned fine book it turned out to be.

Today she ordered a 2nd volume of her blog so I thought

"What the heck, let's get a hardcopy of the 1st year of Waveriders posts!"

So I have made an order too, the front cover of which is shown above.

Cost $50AU or so..............Bargain!

Well, worth considering for your own blog if you care about what you write.

Now who might have inspired this beautiful fin!

2010-05-17T03:34:00.000-07:00

Thanks to Damion

Another type of finless sliding!

2010-05-11T20:10:00.000-07:00

I think I am turning into a..............

2010-05-09T17:50:00.000-07:00

.......................LDWRA - Lie Down Wave Riding Addict!

Yesterday, it was quite big and lumpy with all the gun short boarders out.

For this SSEOL (Surly stink eyed old longboarder) to compete in a line-up of that nature, I am in the habit of choosing a bodyboard which allows me to easily get plenty of waves. I still have to assert myself when I first get out there, as there is a degree of WGAFATB (Who gives a fuck about the bodyboarder!) and "Oh, what a kook this guy must be not only is he on a bodyboard but he is an old bastard and he wears a helmet!"

Yep, The Buzz Lightyear look!

Anyway, they soon realise I am not there to just bob around like a big black and blue buoy that has escaped it's tether, and having established myself in the pecking order, I was having a terrific time when I accidentally took off, a little later than I normally would, on quite a big steep wave easily making what I had assumed was going to be a wipeout.

I enjoyed it so much, I found myself holding back on subsequent waves, before plunging safely down the face, dragging a fin in the face to temper the momentum and so relishing the feeling of being right in the sucky powerful part of the wave ready for a cover up if it was to occur.

Damn it is good fun and I now find myself looking forward to when the conditions/number of others means I am in for a lie down surf.

Now that is the sort of frustration free wave riding life I like!

Lusciously stunning & evocative!

2010-05-06T15:48:00.000-07:00

Heaven or close to it! Every time I visit Daily Bread Surf Photo, I find I am unable not to look again at this beautiful image!!

Great blog - thanks Jason!

So looking forward to joining this exclusive organisation!

2010-05-05T16:36:00.001-07:00

The CEO!

The "Fatty" is on the way today!

With thanks to Paipopaipo

Beach walk

2010-04-28T15:47:00.001-07:00

Nature the artist? Just love the colour combination and natural shapes!

This is a crab?

Further to................

2010-04-26T23:01:00.000-07:00

................ my earlier posts here and here.
The TV was crap last night, so I suggested to Michelle that we watch a surf movie and I got out an old favourite Step into Liquid that was made in 2003.
It is a terrific movie portraying a wide gamut of what surfing is to all sorts of different folks. Anyway, there is a sequence featuring Taj Burrow which highlights his progressive surfing and includes a comment from Kelly Slater wondering that Taj had not won the ASP World Championship up to that point.
The reason, it has taken 6 years? since the film was made for the judges to finally start rewarding progressive surfing and guess who is leading the rankings this year! Yep, Taj!

Crazy Saturday!

2010-04-24T15:30:00.000-07:00

There was a big swell in this long weekend. Here is some footage shot and edited by moi accompanied by music by moi also! Not bad sax playing for someone who doesn't play the sax? Find out how I did it here!

Crankin', absolutely crankin' and...............

2010-04-19T03:23:00.001-07:00

.....big guys can surf smallish boards, particularly if the waves are big enough.
Thanks to Horace

Fatty is on the way!

2010-04-19T03:12:00.000-07:00

The wave riding opportunities lately have been pretty mediocre ( closes outs in the main very like the pic ) and I have been making the choice to use my bodyboard as it was hopeless bothering about using anything else. Now don't get me wrong, as I have mentioned before, I don't have any problem with body boarding in fact, I really enjoy it.
Apart from the thrill I get from the unchanged perspective of the wave by not having to stand up as mentioned above, I also particularly appreciate the wave catching efficiency of a body board and really get off on the speed.

Because of the latter, I have lashed out and bought a surf mat 'cos it seems that they are the fastest wave riding craft of all!
Don't believe me?
Well check this out! Interesting that we share exactly the same last name.
I know it is going to be a real challenge to learn to ride as apparently everything one thought one knew about riding a wave changes. Can barely wait to try though!

Nude Surfing 5?

2010-04-12T20:50:00.000-07:00

Well actually no but check out the 12 foot primitive wooden Paulownia board at Mount Maunganui. Essential riding gear required? A helmet, booties and a wetsuit specially designed to make one look naked in a black and white photo. Pretty cool if you are into it!!

With thanks to Roy Stewart whose blog is well worth a long visit as he has some fascinating ideas in regard to surfboard design that he puts in to successful practise like this!

A change of pace!

2010-04-07T20:24:00.000-07:00

Just as a little contrast to what we have been seeing at Bells in the last couple of days. Graceful carving lines, a big spray off the lip and a 10 point ride which included a barrel in perfect 2 to 3 metre waves.

My prediction for World Champ this year?

2010-04-06T23:27:00.000-07:00

Taj Burrow! Sorry MF, JP etc, but I reckon this is Taj's year. What a way to spend a lay day, watching the world's greatest surfers at Winkipop! Awesome in full screen on my 24" iMac!

ASP World Tour? The stakes have changed this year!

2010-04-06T18:25:00.000-07:00

Finally, the judges are rewarding the progressive moves the young guns like to do in the air off the lip etc etc. So much so that we have just seen Lightning flying himself, with a beautifully executed no hands air, in his heat against Gabriel Medina. Didn't think I would enjoy the spectacle as much as I have been. Bring it on!

Quiver now complete!

2010-04-06T02:33:00.000-07:00

Today I picked up my new longboard built specifically to suit the wave conditions here. Warren Thompson has shaped me the big beautiful blue 10' single fin you can see in the pic above.

After 2 sessions on it, I can report that it is a sensational board.

Gets me on the wave early, trims beautifully and noserides brilliantly.

It is also very forgiving because of soft rails so the big step back and the walk forward again is required to change direction at all quickly. Lots of fun!

The session in the morning started out with sharing a nice left with the young longboard crew who dominate normally but not any more! Yee hah!

I then noticed that the right on the other side of the channel was starting to work with some nice sized waves starting to peak up.

I had it to myself for quite sometime going right initially and then the big step back to avoid someone coming through from the other direction and straight into a fast little reform to the left all the way into the beach while I explored this boards noseriding capability!

The afternoon session was not quite as good but was characterised by a cranking noseride with an unfortunate hiccup in the middle as I had to step back around the current state under 18 women's longboard champion on her way back out before slotting straight back in again. Bloody wonderful stuff I can tell you!

Crowds, crowds and more bloody crowds!

2010-04-03T22:36:00.000-07:00

It's my birthday today. What do most of us who surf really like to do on their birthday? Wow you got it so easily? Yep, go for a surf! With the knowledge that the annual 1 mile ocean swim was on in the morning, Michelle and I did not leave for the beach until the latter part of the morning and this is what we found!

People everywhere and nearly 50 surfers of all sorts in the water! We will have another look later in the day!

Easter Saturday goin' off!

2010-04-03T19:53:00.000-07:00

I spend every 2nd Saturday morning with my youngest son who lives in in my former recent home town.
He is keen to learn body boarding at the moment so we usually go for a surf together at the main town beach which is just terrific for both of us really.
Unfortunately, yesterday morning a sizeable Easterly swell was in and closing out the section of the beach where we usually go and catch 1-2 foot peelers together.

So we went up to the main surf spot, which is an awesome wave when it is on which is not that often unfortunately, to check out the action and it was packed with three main peaks and about 30 riders enjoying themselves.

I have had some epic surfs there and some where I have come away feeling quite disheartened as it can be pretty quick and for an old stink eye like me very challenging.

But if you get on to them? Very much fun indeed.

This guy was in the right spot.

Rip Curl Pro 2009 - perfection!

2010-03-30T19:19:00.001-07:00

Here's hoping it soon turns on again this year!

Teahapoo in Slo-mo............lovely?

2010-03-30T15:54:00.001-07:00

Kinda looks ok in slo-mo with some nice music. Well, this is what it is really like and I cannot believe what it must be like not to make it!

.

2010-03-28T15:39:00.000-07:00

Slo-mo monster tube - sensational!

2010-03-26T17:32:00.000-07:00

You can watch it directly here, but I would recommend you double click on the vid to go to YouTube and choose the HD viewing option for an even greater viewing experience.

I just love the end of the sequence where the wave wells up in front of the camera in crystal clear focus.

This was shot using a $100,000 Typhoon HD4 and is the first digital highspeed camera with an underwater housing - allowing breathtaking slow motion pictures from underwater.

The housing was custom build by ScienceMedia (Dr. Rudolf Diesel) and can be operated like a standard underwater video camera housing. There is a monitor with a live picture on the back of the housing.

All camera features are accessible by push buttons, including reviewing the shot for evaluation while under water. The trigger and the buttons for iris, zoom and focus settings are on the left and right handle.

The camera is battery operated and up to four shots can be stored in the internal memory.

The camera may be used with different lenses and dome ports. The wide angle lenses 14mm and 17mm are used with the 240 mm wide angle dome port, which provides excellent pictures and delivers very interesting perspectives. Remote operation of the underwater housing & camera is also available.

Many thanks to The Endless Bummer for this one. Sorry mate, but I just had to pinch, elaborate and post!

Oh Shit!

2010-03-25T16:50:00.000-07:00

I wish this was a bloody great cannon pointing out in front of me, rather than just the end of a paddle, so as I can blast my way through!

Surfing is fun?

2010-03-20T15:47:00.000-07:00

I was reading an interview with DH in the latest Surfer's Path and I was tickled to note the conversation that evolved around the word "Fun?" apparently the commonest word to be found somewhere in the first bemused response of many surfers on hearing DH rides a finless board. His comment?

"It says a lot about where surfing isn't and where surfing should be"

Well it is in fact fun and DH clearly believes that is the missing ingredient for many "Surfers" today but not for us "Waveriders" of course as we understand that riding waves is fun!

Getting back to finless wave riding. Last year I bought myself a bodyboard, which I used to use prior to learning to ride waves standing up, to further enhance to the opportunity to get in the water and have fun.

Well, what a revelation that has been as I have had some hugely fun sessions on it even when the waves were pretty average.

As DH has discovered along with alaia riders and body boarders, who have understood it for many years, there is something fundamental about sliding across the face of a wave on a craft without fins.

I also like that one is closer to the surface of the wave, seemingly surrounded by all the energy and really being required to go with the flow. The face of the wave looks all the more impressive when you are lying/crouching down and looking along it.

I note that DH spends a lot of time crouched and I understand this is a trimming requirement as much as anything but he would be experiencing something similar especially at a break like J-Bay!

I also tend to take it out if the swell is big and the break crowded as it affords me the opportunity to get more waves as I can get into them way earlier than the stand up surfers. I am constantly amazed at how resistant small board surfers are to the notion of riding any other type of craft other than what they ride. Longboard? No way. A bodyboard? %*#@$ are you serious? But you know there is an upside, while they are struggling away on their ridiculous choice of wave craft, the rest of us, who know, are getting wave after wave after wave! Thank God for short boarders!

And 8 working days later.................

2010-03-18T22:53:00.000-07:00

my new wetsuit arrived and it fits - yay!

I took a bit of a gamble and went for a large, as this is a better quality wetsuit than I normally wear, which is a medium in Rip Curl's Dawn Patrol. I hate when the legs fill up with water and I swapped my original large Dawn Patrol for a medium as that is exactly what it did.

Anyway, I can report that the new E-Bomb fits very snugly and that there is minimal entrapment of water in the legs.

So, if you happen to need a wetsuit at an excellent price then do consider Boardridersguide.com in the UK.

Ummm.... A plague?

2010-03-15T01:52:00.000-07:00

Don't get me wrong now, I think everybody should be allowed to have the opportunity to learn to surf or have the choice of making their living from teaching people to do so.

But, it is a bit disconcerting when you see this number of learners out at your local surf break - 19 excluding the red vested instructors and that is just one session on the day!

So, if there are this many here, think how many there are on any given day everywhere around Australia, particularly in the more well known locations such as Byron and Bondi etc! Thousands? Fortunately, it is not any easy sport to learn requiring a considerable amount of effort, application and persistence over a period of time, so those who actually go on to consistently surf are probably few. Whew!

Warren Thompson?

2010-03-14T15:51:00.000-07:00

I used to own a BIC 10' noserider and I have now returned to that place, making the final change to my quiver following our move to Denmark, by ordering a 10' traditional single fin from local shaper Warren Thompson to complement the more progressive Walden 9' 6" Magic. Warren has been living in Denmark for the last 6 years, knows the break very well and consequently has made a lot of successful longboards for local riders.

Currently, on the weekend, the point is dominated by 3 or 4 teenage girls who ride Warren's longboards with little regard for surf etiquette. I have partly ordered this board in order to enable getting a few more of the waves off those girls and, in good humour, have been referring to it as my "Weapon of Mass Destruction!" Interestingly, Warren has coached those girls in the past and, during my conversation in his shaping rooms about the new board, even he agreed that perhaps it was time they were brought in to line a little and I think he might be having a word or two in their ears about the matter.

Warren has surfed and shaped all his life and this has resulted in his requiring new shoulders as he has worn the originals out! He had one of them replaced a year ago and is able to body surf a little now but has surgery for the other and another year of rehabilitation to look forward to. He can still shape boards though - Whew!

Warren has quite a history as a wave rider, apparently taking riders to Hawaii on surf trips and shaping for Don Brewer but there is little is known about him and I am thinking that needs to change so am contemplating asking if he would be willing to be interviewed for this blog so look forward to that!

Maybe you understand now...................

2010-03-12T22:18:00.000-08:00

.........those of you who choose not to ride waves. So often my need, or why I have worked so hard to fashion a life around the opportunity, to surf is met with a shake of the head at least or a barrage of derision at worst. It is a lifestyle, it has to be and once the decision is made to return to the ocean only death or similarly extreme circumstance will stop one!
Here is one man's struggle to transcend. This humble film is about Michael and his daily ritual to find his natural self through wave riding.

Thanks to Warbles

Michelle's Fish....!

2010-03-09T00:29:00.000-08:00

......is probably sold to local farrier and guitar legend in training Andrew S. She has decided to get rid of it as it is probably a fraction too small for the wave conditions that prevail locally.

It is a 6' 3" 7S Aussie Fish, which is a Semi Fish design with much less volume in the nose than the traditional old school Fishes that were designed in the US.

This design is a cross between a performance shortboard and a true fish design that is great to ride in small to medium surf. It paddles easily and will help you make the most of being on the face of the wave and features a single concave bottom that delivers extra speed and drive while turning.

Here are a couple of pics of Andrew trying the board out in appalling small and onshore conditions that were still enough to convince him that it was a board that would work for him.

Wetsuits? - ever wondered.......................

2010-03-06T00:41:00.000-08:00

.....if we are being ripped off here in Australia?

Well, my 2 year old $300.00 Ripcurl Dawn Patrol 3/2 finally gave up the ghost the other day.

It had been starting to fall apart since the day I got it. Gaping holes in the legs, great seams of wetsuit repair goo all over the place and a great hole below the zip which finally got so big it was exposing my cute little white arse!

So I went surfing ( on the internet ) to see if I could get a replacement for a better price and I did not limit myself to Australia.

And bingo, I scored a top of the line Ripcurl E-bomb 3/2 ( $574.95 here in Oz and the cheapest I had seen was $400 ) for? - wait for it.....................$208.69 including shipping from the UK for god's sake. Now it is probably gonna take a little while to get here but for almost $200 less it is worth it!

"Sorry, what was that you said?"

"Oh, where did I get it from?"

"Right of course, well it was here"

Geez - the guard is changing!

2010-03-04T00:40:00.001-08:00

Parko surfs great, scores a 17.47 and still gets comboed by the amazing Dane Reynolds who scores a 19.20.

Looking forward to a cracker of a semi between another of the new guard, Jordy Smith, and Dane.
Although Bobby M is surfing really well on his backhand, Taj should knock him over in the other semi and then we are set for a mighty showdown between the the old guard and the new!

What a great event it has been so far and we still have the rest of the year to look forward to and I reckon AI might just figure in the equation a bit more prominently as it progresses too!

Doesn't look like much but..................

2010-03-01T02:34:00.000-08:00

.................it's all relative as following a week of hell wind from the E/NE both Michelle and I had a fine time out there today.

I started off at the point picking off some great waves on my booger before heading off round the bay where the waves had a little more size. Jolly good fun it was too!

Somewhere!

2010-02-28T15:06:00.001-08:00

Planing Hulls & Displacement Hulls?

2010-02-27T17:08:00.000-08:00

I keep reading these terms and have long wondered what the @*-+#! they really mean! Well, I have been doing a little research this morning and ended up at Swaylocks and found this delicious looking displacement hull board that is so different to what I am normally used to seeing and the lines are just beautiful.

So, what would it feel like to ride such a board? Well, here is a great article that describes the experience and what you would need to do to ensure success. Get that front foot forward!

Here is some video of a guy riding a Liddle displacement hull and it sure as hell looks a little challenging!

For a more definitive how to go here.

So it transpires that apart from maybe the 7' McCoy Nugget ( as it features a loaded dome bottom curve ) I rode for a couple of years, I have been riding what is basically a planing hull all along and had not realised it?!

Here is a great little video showing the construction of a planing hull and the excellent result!

I have been following Hydrodynamica which features this board type and the name Simmons gets mentioned a lot of the time and here is a fine article about the man's ideas on board design.

There are some out there shapes happening too!

Local guitar hero hits the water!

2010-02-25T00:51:00.001-08:00

We'll get him surfing out the back soon!

A few more pics.........

2010-02-19T15:54:00.001-08:00

....from yesterdays 2nd session!

A talented young grommet getting a nice drop but with little else to look forward to.

Notorious for dropping in and the odd snake, he, who shall go nameless and unidentifiable, doesn't really deserve any pics here but further provides you with an idea of the passable quality of the waves yesterday.

I bought myself my first ever camera..........

2010-02-18T20:23:00.000-08:00

.......and it is waterproof! It is very basic but easy to use which is great as I am a photography neophyte and most of it's use will be - guess where? Yep out the back as it is also tiny, so I can just stuff it down my wetsuit or in the pocket of my boardies when I wear them.

Here are some pics of Astro Girl and below a young punk, I had to refer to as a "Little S..t!", at one point, as he didn't bother even attempting to get out of my way as I started to paddle for a wave that was on the way. It is just not worth upsetting a

"Surly Stink Eyed Old Man Longboarder"

More thongs!

2010-02-17T00:56:00.001-08:00

More of Gerry's ceramic thongs that is and here are some beautiful tiles he has also created!

A thong!

2010-02-16T17:52:00.000-08:00

Not what you were expecting maybe?
Like many surfers, I am sure, thongs are an indispensable part of my kit. So like me, you may also appreciate the great ceramic creation pictured. This is the work of Gerry Wedd, a talented potter from South Australia with a great blog called Weddwould. Many of his pieces have a surfing theme.
Here is a bit of history about thongs for your further edification.

The man who won Mavericks this year.........,

2010-02-13T15:02:00.001-08:00

Chris Bertish from South Africa!

I am always interested to learn more about the people who are so willing to put their lives at risk in waves of this size.

So I googled him and found the following couple of articles 1 & 2, written by the man himself, about the unfortunately cancelled 2009 event which was the first he was invited to contest.

Well he made up for the disappointment of last year that is for sure! Congratulations you beast you!

And now............

2010-02-12T16:57:00.000-08:00

for a bit of belly boarding!

A bit of history about belly boarding in the UK.

The first surfing of this type which we now call “Belly Boarding” (although in the UK it was just called surfing on surfboards until the arrival of the Malibu boards in the early 1960s) is thought to have started in the very early 1900s when a form of the Hawaiian ‘Paipo’ board was copied by British soldiers returning from the Great War inspired by stories of surfing from South Africa, Australia and Hawaii.

Shark 2!

2010-02-11T15:41:00.000-08:00

Kiwi artist Andy Shaw also a dab hand with a pencil.

Gotta love this blog!

2010-02-10T16:16:00.000-08:00

Even though he has referred to me and my kind in fairly derogatory terms this blog is well worth visiting for the drawings alone!

Ahhh................2!!

2010-02-10T15:28:00.000-08:00

.............the smug look of a "Surly Stink Eyed Old Man Longboarder" after a great session yesterday afternoon!

Ahhh.............!!

2010-02-08T18:58:00.000-08:00

I must fit this category I guess?
"Surly Stink Eyed Old Man Longboarder"
With thanks to Stuff Surfers Like
In the end it was 3 days of surfing over the weekend after Fridays session on the Carver mentioned in my previous post.
I had the longboard out on Saturday arvo in small waves and even with the sidebiters off it is still proving itself not to be much chop in small waves and is just a leeeetle frustrating! Michelle had a go on it and gave it straight back as her 8' 4" hybrid was getting her on to those same small waves more readily.
I might have been better off on the Carver in fact and I am gonna have to switch the Walden Magic for something more traditional for when it is small but too windy for the SUP although that is becoming less of an issue as my proficiency on it improves.
On Saturday the swell had dropped right off so it was out with the SUPs and both Michelle and I had a great session.
Damn they are good fun in small waves, and bigger ones too I am finding out, and such a great workout. I feel like the hulk (Yeh, yeh, I know just 'cos you feel that way doesn't meant you are) after a session with every muscle in the old bod feeling like it has had some use.
Ya gotta give it a try sometime if you haven't yet!
As they say "The best surfer is the one having the most fun!"

Finally a good session on the 8' 1" Carver!

2010-02-05T14:50:00.000-08:00

Yes your are correct that is not me and it is unlikely that I will ever manage to pull off such a move.

But what I found out about the Carver yesterday is that even though it is 8' 1", it feels like one could do so.

Very impressive and exactly as Bob recommends "Think like you're riding a shortboard".

As I have been riding longer boards lately, it took me a little while to adjust to the shorter and much skinnier board. I was too far back initially, but once I got my front foot forward "Wo!" off it went like a bat out of hell.

Terrific fun and it looked impressive enough that Michelle was heard to say, most unusually, "Expletive - I forgot to bring my camera again" To find out more about yesterdays session visit here as all has been said already.

Nude Surfing 4! LOL!

2010-01-31T22:11:00.000-08:00

Nude Surfing 3!

2010-01-31T21:34:00.000-08:00

Sorry I could not get the audio in the conversion from Flash but you should certainly get the gist of it in any case. Thanks to ttdnteam and Michelle

So I had to go............

2010-01-30T23:48:00.000-08:00

... and find out more about Maestro Ryan Burch, the star of the last post. That Gauntlet is definitely down!

VIMBY - Ryan Burch

And here is more courtesy of Warbles

Ummmm............Very impressive work!

2010-01-30T23:29:00.000-08:00

Looking forward to "Stoked and Broke" when it comes out. The 2nd piece of interesting footage and not J-Bay but the gauntlet laid down for DH maybe? Thanks to Look & Sea

Nude Surfing 2!

2010-01-30T21:12:00.000-08:00

More pics in already. Thanks Michelle. The image to the left, which all of us who surf must have seen at some point, portrays surfing in it's most original and natural state and of course all participants male and female are naked and completely comfortable.

I also found this image earlier but chose not to use it in the original "Nude Surfing" post for reasons which I believe fairly obvious.

I almost used this next one but considered the image of the guy a little small to use as a comparison.

Now this one looks photoshopped to my eye and is gratuitous because of the sexual orientation of the couples pose.

1982 Surfer Magazine Cover

2010-01-30T20:29:00.000-08:00

How could you possibly doing anything but by this issue for the cover alone!

Thanks Damion

Nude Surfing!

2010-01-30T20:03:00.000-08:00

I really liked the image on the right when I found it on SissyFish' blog.
This girl is oblivious to the camera, totally focussed on what she is doing on the wave and so, even though naked, I believe a tasteful image of an active woman that is neither gratuitous nor offensive.

In an attempt to keep the balance I have scoured the internet to find a pic of some hunky guy in a similar image but the best I could come up with was these three who are also totally focussed on........competing with each other. Such a guy thing Eh!

If anybody has a similar shot of a guy to the one of the girl, I will gladly amend this post to include it.

Shark 1!

2010-01-30T18:00:00.001-08:00

Amazing how much more friendly he/she looks!

Many thanks to Chum who originally thanked Rye!

After Typhoon - Japan!

2010-01-29T15:53:00.000-08:00

Featuring our very own Ross Clarke-Jones and an almost totalled jetski!

Thanks for this My Beloved

Appalling, just appalling!

2010-01-26T03:50:00.000-08:00

Grey skies, strong SE winds with no real swell just wind driven mush for the last few days but today it was in anyway as one just has to.

It was much more chaotic and wind effected than the pic to the left but the same colour water and, well lumps really, rather than waves coming through.

Michelle was not keen at all when we got there as the wind was pretty strong but nothing stops me taking out my bodyboard in these conditions for a good solid workout. So I left Michelle to ponder whether to return home and take "Those who must be obeyed" for a walk or come in anyway.

There were some decent size lumps coming through and I was having a jolly time in fact when out of the corner of my I caught sight of a red object. A red helmet in fact. "Buggar me, it's the missus come out to join me on her 8' 4" hybrid!"

Hand Boarding 6

2010-01-25T15:40:00.000-08:00

Thanks for finding this one Jamie

Cyrus filming for "Stoked and Broke" from www.KORDUROY.tv on Vimeo.

Yummm!

2010-01-23T22:48:00.000-08:00

Really like this pic and many thanks to srfnff for happening to have it in the title of his blog.

Surfcams? Really great but..........

2010-01-22T00:59:00.000-08:00

......damn it can be hard to judge the size of the waves on any given day from the location of ours on the surf club verandah.

Not that it would have been a problem had it been an image to the left that confronted you following a surreptitious check of your local webcam whilst you were at work. Just pea green with envy, I would imagine!

Anyway, thinking it was small and messy, today I took my handboard down for a quick session, whilst "Those who must be obeyed" were off for a beach walk with Michelle. Turned out it was way bigger than it had looked on the cam and a bodyboard would have been the best bet. But, hey, I had a good time and the usual great workout that handboarding provides, so I can't complain too much.

Board saved from sale due to unfortunate incident!

2010-01-21T14:40:00.000-08:00

In a recent post I mentioned that I was likely to sell my 9' 6" Walden Magic Model longboard as I was a little unhappy with it's performance in the waves here. Well, I duly set about preparing an advert to put up at the local surf club and part of this process, of course, is to take a picture of the board to place on it. So I get my trusty iPhone, go outside and under the house, drag the big board out, open the bag and find one of the side biters has disappeared!

"Shit!" I say to myself " How did that happen?" I thought back over the last few days and "Ahh, I remember, the learner on a softtop I ran into. My board coming to a jarring halt as that fin, it appears now, connected with his board as he frantically tried to get out of the way with a look of terror on his face and I high sided over the nose of the board!

I turned to him and said "Now you might like to have a little look around you before you attempt to take off on a wave!" He had been consistently not doing so a number of times beforehand. He agreed saying "Yes, I think I should."

Anyway back to the picture taking.

"Oh well" I said to myself, "I must be selling a single fin longboard" and duly removed the remaining side biter and took a couple of pics. The next day the ad went up on the surf club wall and I was pleased to note that a few numbers had been taken from my existing ad for the 6' 10" fish, however no calls to date.

Yesterday, the conditions were small too small for the new Carver probably a bit windy for the SUP so I thought "Blow it, even though I have the longboard up for sale, I am going to take it out for a spin and try it again now that it is a single fin."

Well, after a great session, in which the board seemed to revel in not having the extra drag at the back and paddled so much more easily into the small waves on offer, that ad has now been removed (by someone else strangely, saving me the need to do so myself) and the board will remain in the quiver.... with the addition of a swish new and bigger single fin in the colour blue ordered today from Shapers Australia.

Big messy onshore today so..............

2010-01-16T03:11:00.000-08:00

.......I left the new board at home (bum, bum, bum!) and it was out with the bodyboard for a quick session while Michelle took "those who must be obeyed" round the bay for a run and lots of sniffing. Apparently Hermyne was mounting frequent stealth attacks on Hamish also.

Back to the session.

Initially just 4 of us out the back and then just myself and another old guy on a shortboard.

We were getting tossing around like corks waiting for some pretty sizeable chunks to come through, a bit like the pic, but closer intervals between waves and messier with lots of double ups. I was glad the rip by the rocks was working as it is hard yakka on a bodyboard in those conditions, which is one of the main reasons I take it out, apart from the fact is is damn fine fun too and I am guaranteed more rides than those who insist on stand up surfing!

When will I take the new board out again you ask? Jeez let me think now..........maybe ASAIABAT?!

Finally, the big? beautiful red Carver has arrived!..........

2010-01-15T03:07:00.000-08:00

...........and of course, abiding by the rule that the first surf on a new board has to be when it's crap, I duly took it out in this afternoon's onshore and small ( where the waves were breaking with any ridable shape at all ) conditions.

Not expecting too much but wanting to get some sort of a feel for the board, the first thing I noticed was that it slipped through the water very easily, which was surprising as it felt so small and narrow in comparison to the 9' 6" Magic Model Walden I would normally take out in such conditions. So my interest and excitement about this new board's potential was somewhat elevated.

And....... blow me down with March fly's fart! I slipped into a small wave having barely put any paddling effort in at all. Shit, I thought to myself, that felt easier to do than if I had been on the Walden! By the end of the session that thought was still not able to be discarded completely and can you empathise with the degree to which I am now looking forward to trying the Carver on a bigger and better quality wave? Oh yeh, I thought so and I am looking forward to Michelle having a go on it and her reaction also. Oh, and it is probably bye bye to the Walden me thinks!

A good workout on a crap day!

2010-01-14T00:18:00.000-08:00

Yesterday, I really needed to get into the ocean and as it was onshore and I was not expecting much swell I took my handboard and flippers out for what I thought would be a short session.

As it turned out there was a little more swell than I had thought there would be and I ended up really enjoying the sometime heaving onshore conditions for longer than I had intended.

As a consequence I missed the arrival of Michelle at the beach to pick me up (she had taken "Those that must be obeyed" for a walk elsewhere) which created some angst.

I take this opportunity to apologise unreservedly to her again and will endeavour, though I think it may be tricky, to communicate to her unspecified future decision making beforehand.

Today? The best SUP session so far!

2010-01-06T22:59:00.000-08:00

As my new board has still not arrived, it was pretty small on the bay today and I couldn't see anything particularly enticing for a regular board, I decided it was time for another session on my 10' 10" Walden SUP.

Good decision as I got a few rippers, very similar in size to the wave depicted to the left, and learnt a lot more about:

1. Turning the board in preparation for a wave

2. Judging where I need to be to optimise a drama free take off

3. The take off itself

4. Getting far enough back so as it was easier to throw the board around in the other direction (to avoid my beloved)

5. Paddling hard on a fatter wave to maintain momentum

I am gaining more confidence as I am not having to worry so much about falling off the board while I am waiting for a wave and getting the board around in readiness.

As we were leaving a guy was unloading a sweet looking super wide Robbie Naish SUP.

Shame he didn't get there a little earlier.

The session was a good two hours or so but is unlikely to stop Michelle and I from going out for another session this afternoon while the conditions are still very amenable!

Cold Water Classic 2009 completed!

2010-01-04T18:11:00.000-08:00

This has been a great event and I can't wait for the 2010 series.

I urge you to visit the website navigate to the video page and watch the documentaries they have put together on each of the 5 events. Really informative about each location, some terrific surfing footage and to die for trophies!

Go check it out now!