The surfing season has arrived with perfect conditions today again allowing Michelle and I and a few others to enjoy great waves round the bay. I was on the new board and yet again it is proving to be a great ride. It was just a little too loose so I recently replaced the 7" central fin with an 8". It felt great today so I will stick with this for awhile as I enjoy the lively feel in contrast to the 9' 6" McTavish Noserider I also own.
I turned 62 earlier this month and I am pleased to report, that remarkably, considering I had a 3 year sabbatical on surf mats, I seem to be surfing better than I ever have. I think that period of mat riding has informed this improvement in some very positive ways although I am a little mystified how. I know for sure that instituting a 6 day a week yoga practice has definitely contributed as my body is far more flexible making it easier to pop etc. An additional factor, was a shift to a paleo eating regime I embarked on at the end of last year. Although not so obvious from the image above, this has resulted in an extraordinary reduction of fat cover over my body and dropping down two sizes of pants with another reduction close. My mantra is 85 by 65 and I reckon I am well on the way!
the sea is all about us
4 years ago
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