Monday, April 27, 2009

Not in there yet but can feel it will happen soon!

Now that we have finished cladding our house, Yay!, Michelle and I were able to take the day off yesterday and go surfing for the 2nd day in a row.
It was a bit lumpy, messy, fat and crowded at the main break yesterday but there was still a bit of shape. As I had not had a stand up surf for a few sessions I took my longboard out got a couple and then it promptly went off as the tide was coming in and as I have no patience with persevering in that situation I got out.
Michelle was back at the point, so I drove back there, the crowd was 3 and there was some shape amongst the close outs. As it was a bit quick I turned to my new best friend "The Big Bruddah" and got a few crackers and was so close to getting barrelled on one wave.
I am really enjoying that while wave riders on hard boards are struggling with the conditions, I am able to reap a harvest of great rides on the bodyboard and am fast becoming a convert to this exhilarating and highly efficient form of wave riding.

I have always been a little intrigued by George Greenough and recently purchased the movie Alby Falzon made about him "Crystal Voyager".
George is completely unable to cope with crowded conditions and so searches out less than perfect uncrowded waves which of course he is able to have a great session on either using his mat or knee board.

I was intrigued that he would take both a mat and his "spoon" kneeboard when he was paddling over to the break from his boat.
The reason of course, is that the spoon has barely any flotation and so he used the mat to get himself there and left that on the outside while he surfed the spoon. I can guess that he became a mat rider because it would have occurred to him to give it a go when the waves were unsuitable for the "spoon".
I wonder why he did not take to a bodyboard also when they were invented - Strange?

Monday, April 20, 2009

Those good old negative ions

Finally, Michelle and I got in the water today for a surf after about 3 weeks of being on dry land because we have been flat out building to try and get our new home to lock up before the the rain starts to arrive. Nearly there.
Anyway, after the surf, I just felt fantastic and was really up and particularly cheerful for the rest of the day.
It was nothing to do with the quality of the surf though as it was close out crap and I took my bodyboard out.
So there must be something in the negative ion theory and I think I got a particularly powerful dose because I was on the bodyboard. More immersed than usual in breaking waves and of course because more waves can be caught leading to an aerobically robust and thorough workout.
Michelle just popped in and inquired what I was doing and she has confirmed that she felt the same bouyancy after the surf today also which I had not realised further confirming that something is going on.
Here is an extract from an article on the website.

When ocean waves crash onto a beach, they could be doing more than entertaining beach goers. Moving water, moving air and sunlight all cause air molecules to break apart, releasing charged atoms, or ions, into the atmosphere. Some scientists claim that there is an abundance of negatively charged ions in sea air and that they could have health benefits which range from better circulation to improved moods. A lot of people have enough faith in these effects to purchase negative ion generators for their homes. But have these curative claims ever been satisfactorily verified?


Negative ions in the air caused by rolling waves could have health benefits for surfers.

Ions in Sea Air

Ocean air contains a high percentage of ions which a surfer will inevitably encounter in their quest to find the perfect wave. These mainly come from ions of sodium, magnesium, chloride and sulphate present in sea water.

Sodium, the main positive ion found in sea water, is also found in extra-cellular fluids in our bodies. These fluids, such as blood plasma, bathe cells and carry out important transport functions for nutrients and waste. Positive magnesium ions are also used by the body and are an ingredient of some medicines like Epsom salts, which are commonly used to treat aches and pains. Negative chloride ions also play an important physiological role in the central nervous system and in transporting protein around the body.

So now I am thinking of purchasing an ioniser for the new house!

Friday, April 17, 2009

Prediction on course - Parko wins Bells!

Well I predicted after the 1st round that this could be his year and Mr Smooth has confirmed my thoughts doing it again in classic Bells waves producing gorgeous flowing moves all over the face.
I particularly loved his sweeping and beautifully timed and weighted carves across the lip throwing a huge rooster tail - simply awesome!
He is totally at home in a barrel too!

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Congrats Silvana and I love your green board!

Runner up last year and part of a new guard of women surfers, Silvana is aggressive and exciting to watch and gave the current world champ, Steph Gilmour, a bit of a lesson at Bells the other day when she became the first Brazilian surfer ever to win the coveted trophy.
Probably helped by a fierce training regimen that includes surfing almost daily, weight training, water fitness, running and stretching and backed up by a lifelong involvement in Capoeira, the Brazilian martial art that's known for its fluid strong movement.
I am looking forward to seeing some more of that trademark green rocketship she rides as the year progresses.

Thursday, April 2, 2009