Monday, April 27, 2009

Not in there yet but can feel it will happen soon!

Now that we have finished cladding our house, Yay!, Michelle and I were able to take the day off yesterday and go surfing for the 2nd day in a row.
It was a bit lumpy, messy, fat and crowded at the main break yesterday but there was still a bit of shape. As I had not had a stand up surf for a few sessions I took my longboard out got a couple and then it promptly went off as the tide was coming in and as I have no patience with persevering in that situation I got out.
Michelle was back at the point, so I drove back there, the crowd was 3 and there was some shape amongst the close outs. As it was a bit quick I turned to my new best friend "The Big Bruddah" and got a few crackers and was so close to getting barrelled on one wave.
I am really enjoying that while wave riders on hard boards are struggling with the conditions, I am able to reap a harvest of great rides on the bodyboard and am fast becoming a convert to this exhilarating and highly efficient form of wave riding.

I have always been a little intrigued by George Greenough and recently purchased the movie Alby Falzon made about him "Crystal Voyager".
George is completely unable to cope with crowded conditions and so searches out less than perfect uncrowded waves which of course he is able to have a great session on either using his mat or knee board.

I was intrigued that he would take both a mat and his "spoon" kneeboard when he was paddling over to the break from his boat.
The reason of course, is that the spoon has barely any flotation and so he used the mat to get himself there and left that on the outside while he surfed the spoon. I can guess that he became a mat rider because it would have occurred to him to give it a go when the waves were unsuitable for the "spoon".
I wonder why he did not take to a bodyboard also when they were invented - Strange?

1 comment:

  1. I can relate to the strategy of riding less-than-perfect waves just to get away from the crowds. When I got to the point I was the only one there. Apart from the usual head-high+ close-outs there was the occasional shaped wave. Looks like the point is starting to shape up.