Sunday, December 19, 2010

Friday, December 10, 2010

Ah there's the wave!

Now let's get off this boat and go ride it.

Incredible! Believe it! A group of surfers braved the unknown and surfed pororoca of Sumatra in Indonesia.

Follow the following report:

The 'little' Big Bono

Everyone knows that Indonesia is home to the best waves of the ocean in the world, but is the soul of one surfer in the world knew that there could find the holes in tidal waves, as powerful as Pororoca Brazilian or the Chinese dragon?

YEP Frenchman Antony Colas led a team of 'boreriders "and found what appeared to be impossible.

- I found this incredible surge in the river in the jungle, which is neither in the list of fifty-five rivers listed by 'Tidal Bore Research Society' ( - YEP Antony Colas

On the east side of Sumatra island, there is the 'Bono', as the inhabitants call Kampar River, in fact the phenomenon with a certain fear, which swallowed many lives since last year.

Although few details and the lack of tides, Eduardo Bage, the Franco-Brazilian longboarder pro, and Fabrice Colas Audoy and Patrick, both very experienced with the tidal bore of "Mascaret" in Dordogne, decided to explore the mysterious hole. Presumably thought that was very weak during the day, and that the 'Bono' should remain in breaking the range of 1 to 2 feet, whereas 'bono' by most of the night would stay at around 6 feet! Despite its supposedly low power, the 'Bono' day ended up generating a lot of energy to face 6 feet and 8 feet at its peak "epicenter". With several sections lasting a few tens of minutes and a peculiar walk which was recorded over the one hour mark, the 'Bono' also offered the first barrel ride on the picture!

However, the trip almost became a disaster when the second day, the two boats, which had been specially sent from Jakarta, had been cut with knives! Apparently, some people involved in forestry is not believed that we had only been surfing the 'Bono', and thought they were making comments to Greenpeace.
Only one of the two Zodiacs could be repaired properly. The ground wood was arrested on 3 to go to meet the waves 'Bono' of five heavy guys!

Fortunately, we were sitting in one of the best tropical woods in the world!
Anyway, we could go to the tidal waves, and teach some places to surf with the stand-ups, instead of local boats, canoes known as Sampan or Perahu. And remember, you're only 6 to 8 feet, local pilots say the boats in the winter 'bono' is large and can reach 12 to 15 feet tall!

Cheers ...

Antony "Yep" Colas

Monday, December 6, 2010

Old school

On Sunday when we went to check the surf conditions and chose not to go in but to watch the rather large numbers scrabbling for a poor selection of waves. One of the horde stuck out as he was having a hell of a time getting on to any of the waves even though he was riding a blue longboard. Until the set wave of the day came through and he got a most satisfying ride I would think considering the conditions although the board seemed slow considering the size and power of the wave?
Yesterday, I discovered why from the rider himself, a visitor from Crescent Head, whilst preparing for another session on the longboard he had found discarded on the verge whilst in Perth. After checking with various house owners to ensure he was not going to be stealing it he found himself in possession of a board shaped in 1962 with an old style and quite small wedge fin. Normally a shortboard rider he had found he could not stop himself choosing the longboard instead.
I got a chance to check it out, unfortunately I did not have a camera on my person, but it is very much the same shape as the Greg Noll board in the pic but not quite as pretty. Overall it is quite narrow with all the meat in the board is at the back end and a long thin nose section. Rocker you ask? Nuh not really!
In the end I joined him for a fun session with a handful of others in better than it looked conditions on my new school old school 10' single fin shaped by local icon Warren (check out my new shoulders!) Thompson.

Saturday, December 4, 2010