Old school

On Sunday when we went to check the surf conditions and chose not to go in but to watch the rather large numbers scrabbling for a poor selection of waves. One of the horde stuck out as he was having a hell of a time getting on to any of the waves even though he was riding a blue longboard. Until the set wave of the day came through and he got a most satisfying ride I would think considering the conditions although the board seemed slow considering the size and power of the wave?
Yesterday, I discovered why from the rider himself, a visitor from Crescent Head, whilst preparing for another session on the longboard he had found discarded on the verge whilst in Perth. After checking with various house owners to ensure he was not going to be stealing it he found himself in possession of a board shaped in 1962 with an old style and quite small wedge fin. Normally a shortboard rider he had found he could not stop himself choosing the longboard instead.
I got a chance to check it out, unfortunately I did not have a camera on my person, but it is very much the same shape as the Greg Noll board in the pic but not quite as pretty. Overall it is quite narrow with all the meat in the board is at the back end and a long thin nose section. Rocker you ask? Nuh not really!
In the end I joined him for a fun session with a handful of others in better than it looked conditions on my new school old school 10' single fin shaped by local icon Warren (check out my new shoulders!) Thompson.