Saturday, July 18, 2009

Stoke? Staying down inside the wave!

I have really enjoyed rediscovering the fun that choosing to ride a body board delivers.
For me, one of the most exciting aspects of wave riding is seeing, as one is taking off, a wall such as that depicted above stretching out ahead.
If I am riding the fish or longboard, as soon as I stand up, I lose that perspective particularly as I don't ride waves more than head height normally as more than that scares the shit out of me.
My great discovery re bodyboarding is that the perspective is retained and that just totally amps up the buzz in a session.
The confidence I have gained, means that I am now more willing to take off on my fish or longboard when I see this view rather than choosing to opt out.
Still learning!


  1. Sounds like you are having so much fun.

  2. Nice to hear from you Jamie - love your blog and oh yes always having fun!