I spend every 2nd Saturday morning with my youngest son who lives in in my former recent home town.He is keen to learn body boarding at the moment so we usually go for a surf together at the main town beach which is just terrific for both of us really.
Unfortunately, yesterday morning a sizeable Easterly swell was in and closing out the section of the beach where we usually go and catch 1-2 foot peelers together.
So we went up to the main surf spot, which is an awesome wave when it is on which is not that often unfortunately, to check out the action and it was packed with three main peaks and about 30 riders enjoying themselves.
I have had some epic surfs there and some where I have come away feeling quite disheartened as it can be pretty quick and for an old stink eye like me very challenging.
But if you get on to them? Very much fun indeed.
This guy was in the right spot.
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