Sunday, May 9, 2010

I think I am turning into a..............

.......................LDWRA - Lie Down Wave Riding Addict!
Yesterday, it was quite big and lumpy with all the gun short boarders out.
For this SSEOL (Surly stink eyed old longboarder) to compete in a line-up of that nature, I am in the habit of choosing a bodyboard which allows me to easily get plenty of waves. I still have to assert myself when I first get out there, as there is a degree of WGAFATB (Who gives a fuck about the bodyboarder!) and "Oh, what a kook this guy must be not only is he on a bodyboard but he is an old bastard and he wears a helmet!"
Yep, The Buzz Lightyear look!
Anyway, they soon realise I am not there to just bob around like a big black and blue buoy that has escaped it's tether, and having established myself in the pecking order, I was having a terrific time when I accidentally took off, a little later than I normally would, on quite a big steep wave easily making what I had assumed was going to be a wipeout.
I enjoyed it so much, I found myself holding back on subsequent waves, before plunging safely down the face, dragging a fin in the face to temper the momentum and so relishing the feeling of being right in the sucky powerful part of the wave ready for a cover up if it was to occur.
Damn it is good fun and I now find myself looking forward to when the conditions/number of others means I am in for a lie down surf.
Now that is the sort of frustration free wave riding life I like!


  1. That is just a plain disturbing picture, Ramsnake.

  2. Oh yeh and this is the original!

  3. That top photo makes me miss the walls in Waikiki.

    longboard surfboards