Wednesday, March 11, 2009

My first surfing adventure!

After 5 years of surfing, I experienced for the first time what it must have been like for surfers in the old days!
On yet another unproductive search for a wave at one of my usual surfing spots, my mate Surfer Pete who was also on the lookout for a wave, talked Michelle and I into to checking out a secret spot he had been going to with some success recently.
Well. what a day that turned out to be!
We rolled up to the lookout spot to find the wave at the point was not working but that a wave a fair way up the beach looked promising.
Finally, after 5 years of trudging up beaches, I have a 4-wheel drive vehicle so we were able to follow Surfer Pete down a narrow track and park amongst the trees at a spiff little camping spot above the beach. This was as far as we could take the vehicles so we changed in to our wetsuits and headed down the hill over the sand dunes and trudged up the beach.
It is always with a mixture of excitement and trepidation that you enter the water at a new spot as it takes a little time to familiarise with the local conditions.
Is it rippy and how strong is the rip?
How are the waves - crumbly, fat, powerful, dumping, perfect!
Where is the take off point?
What to use as landmarks to maintain position?
How does the place feel to be in the water at? - pleasant, foreboding!
Well, this spot was fantastic and I had the best surf I have had for sometime. It felt good to be in the water there although I am sure it would get a little nasty if the swell had been bigger. Michelle and I both vowed to keep this one a secret which is hard to do after a good session like that as you are busting to tell people about it!
Can't wait to go back there and try the wave off the point next time if it is working!
Thanks Pete!

No comments:

Post a Comment