Ah there's the wave!

Now let's get off this boat and go ride it.

Incredible! Believe it! A group of surfers braved the unknown and surfed pororoca of Sumatra in Indonesia.

Follow the following report:

The 'little' Big Bono

Everyone knows that Indonesia is home to the best waves of the ocean in the world, but is the soul of one surfer in the world knew that there could find the holes in tidal waves, as powerful as Pororoca Brazilian or the Chinese dragon?

YEP Frenchman Antony Colas led a team of 'boreriders "and found what appeared to be impossible.

- I found this incredible surge in the river in the jungle, which is neither in the list of fifty-five rivers listed by 'Tidal Bore Research Society' (www.tidalbore.info) - YEP Antony Colas

On the east side of Sumatra island, there is the 'Bono', as the inhabitants call Kampar River, in fact the phenomenon with a certain fear, which swallowed many lives since last year.

Although few details and the lack of tides, Eduardo Bage, the Franco-Brazilian longboarder pro, and Fabrice Colas Audoy and Patrick, both very experienced with the tidal bore of "Mascaret" in Dordogne, decided to explore the mysterious hole. Presumably thought that was very weak during the day, and that the 'Bono' should remain in breaking the range of 1 to 2 feet, whereas 'bono' by most of the night would stay at around 6 feet! Despite its supposedly low power, the 'Bono' day ended up generating a lot of energy to face 6 feet and 8 feet at its peak "epicenter". With several sections lasting a few tens of minutes and a peculiar walk which was recorded over the one hour mark, the 'Bono' also offered the first barrel ride on the picture!

However, the trip almost became a disaster when the second day, the two boats, which had been specially sent from Jakarta, had been cut with knives! Apparently, some people involved in forestry is not believed that we had only been surfing the 'Bono', and thought they were making comments to Greenpeace.
Only one of the two Zodiacs could be repaired properly. The ground wood was arrested on 3 to go to meet the waves 'Bono' of five heavy guys!

Fortunately, we were sitting in one of the best tropical woods in the world!
Anyway, we could go to the tidal waves, and teach some places to surf with the stand-ups, instead of local boats, canoes known as Sampan or Perahu. And remember, you're only 6 to 8 feet, local pilots say the boats in the winter 'bono' is large and can reach 12 to 15 feet tall!

Cheers ...

Antony "Yep" Colas

Old school

On Sunday when we went to check the surf conditions and chose not to go in but to watch the rather large numbers scrabbling for a poor selection of waves. One of the horde stuck out as he was having a hell of a time getting on to any of the waves even though he was riding a blue longboard. Until the set wave of the day came through and he got a most satisfying ride I would think considering the conditions although the board seemed slow considering the size and power of the wave?
Yesterday, I discovered why from the rider himself, a visitor from Crescent Head, whilst preparing for another session on the longboard he had found discarded on the verge whilst in Perth. After checking with various house owners to ensure he was not going to be stealing it he found himself in possession of a board shaped in 1962 with an old style and quite small wedge fin. Normally a shortboard rider he had found he could not stop himself choosing the longboard instead.
I got a chance to check it out, unfortunately I did not have a camera on my person, but it is very much the same shape as the Greg Noll board in the pic but not quite as pretty. Overall it is quite narrow with all the meat in the board is at the back end and a long thin nose section. Rocker you ask? Nuh not really!
In the end I joined him for a fun session with a handful of others in better than it looked conditions on my new school old school 10' single fin shaped by local icon Warren (check out my new shoulders!) Thompson.

Want a lesson on the pop up........

..... and a few other beautiful things?

Alaia Rob Machado by Riders-Match.

Surf Sister charging!

On a great looking wave! Cowabunga!

Good Company!

Yesterday we had the privilege of a pod of dolphins surfing with us for a good 40 minutes or so. I had up to six at a time flying along underneath me and then 2 or 3 would escort me back out to the peak dodging each other as they darted around in front of my longboard. There were quite a number of juveniles and they were in a playful and inquisitive mood leaping out of the water right next to me and breaching close by to have a good look too. Just wonderful particularly as it was just Michelle and myself out enjoying some little peeling rights in front of the clubhouse. Unfortunately, the up beat mood of the session was marred as Michelle has re-injured her foot in exactly the same way again and is back on crutches. She is very down on herself for being a very slow learner!

Walking the board!

I have had the longboard out a fair bit lately due to a lack of swell mainly. As I mentioned in a previous post, I believe that my matting experience has quite markedly resulted in an improvement in my stand up board riding skills. For example, just in the last couple of sessions, I have pulled off some cranking bottom turns that I cannot remember having been able to complete so readily before and damn I am nailing the take off staying in the top of the wave, with plenty of time to leap gracefully (Ahem) to my feet more than I used to also.
Anyway, brimming with confidence, I have now started work on learning to properly cross step up and down the board rather than shuffling in my usual ungainly fashion. Ummm and  it is not as easy as it looks. When I first tried it I just attempted to walk up the board as one normally does and it was straight off the side I tumbled. Then I realised that I had to maintain the angle of my feet, in particular, the starting foot, being the right as I stand normally. I have a long way to go, particularly in actually remembering to do it, but I am encouraged by my progress so far.

A better longboarder?

The swell has been a little small in the last few days so I have had the 10' longboard out rather than a mat. I have been riding longboards for far longer than surf mats but the sessions this week have made me realise that mat riding has subtly contributed and, I believe, improved my longboarding in 3 specific ways.

1. I seem to be more highly sensitised to what the wave is doing and I think this is particularly to do with where the power is in the wave. Even though the board is hard and insensitive in comparison to a mat there is definitely an added awareness which is contributing to an even better longboarding experience with longer and more satisfying rides.

2. I have a new awareness of my positioning on the longboard and the effect this is having on it's interaction at any specific time with what the wave is doing again contributing to a better longboarding experience. Not surprising, I guess, as this is such a fundamental part of the mat riding experience.

3. Suddenly, I seem able to complete later take offs than I can remember being able to achieve before as mat riding seems to have taken my understanding of what is possible on the take off to a new level. For instance, I have really enjoyed gaining the confidence to delay the take off on a surf mat so as I am right at the top of the wave providing plenty of time to make the decision to either enjoy the rush of charging straight down or angling across high on the face of the wave. Now I knew of this already but I think it is my new awareness mentioned in points 1 & 2 that has allowed me to now apply that more successfully on a 10' single fin longboard.

I have always thought this..............

.......and now it is confirmed! On the south coast of Australia, the power of our waves is unmatched almost anywhere else in the world. This excerpt is from an article relating to the development of a technology by a West Australian company Carnegie to harness wave energy to power hydro-electric turbines that they are hoping to commence here.

A cracking nose ride!

A new blog devoted entirely to the surf mat!

As riding a surf mat has basically taken over my wave riding life to such an extent that I write about little else, I have decided it is time to split off the surf mat related posts into their very own blog.

Way back in 1988..........

............long before the current vogue, Dale Solomonson was thinking finless in this beautifully rendered design.

Many years later, in 2006, Carl Olsen actually built the board and it goes just fine.

2nd one here in WA within 3 months!

The last attack was less than 50 kilometres away from here at Conspicuous Cliffs.
This time it was Gracetown again. So unfair that a small community, with such a lovely name, could be subjected to so much trauma. In 1996, 5 adults and 4 children were killed in a cliff collapse whilst watching an inter-school surf competition and there was an earlier shark attack back in 2004.
I have to say I do worry at times, when lying on a mat, that I look far more like a tasty seal than if I were on a surfboard. In reality though, if you happen to be in the wrong spot at the wrong time, it is probably completely immaterial.

More 'chopes

and a guy who does have the skill and the guts to give it a shot on a bloody SUP for god's sake! Yeh I know Laird has been there before but ya don't get the wipe out shot!

'chopes!

Well worth double clicking on to see the full size image which shows so clearly the setup at Teahupoo! Like many of those you can see sitting on the shoulder, it would be enough of a buzz to merely watch and wonder at those that have the ability and courage to ride it.

Incredible, truly incredible wave riding!

I have seen quite a bit of Derek's work, but I have not seen those big sideways power slides before. Awesome! Enjoy!

Jet Skis - not happy!

These guys have been hanging around for a few days and pissing off the local surf community and anybody else hoping to enjoy the tranquil beauty of the bay. Apparently they are from Kojonup and many of us just wish they would go back there. This is the main family beach of this area, and although they are around the bay a little but not enough, the noise they make is incessant and insidious. You can certainly hear how bad it is!
They were apparently also drinking on the beach which is again not appropriate considering the nature of the amenity.

Yes, we should share the ocean but I think there is a limit and hopefully the local council may chose to make some changes as I think they are going to hear about it.

Just for a little contrast.............

.......whilst I was playing happily on my mats yesterday at the point in moderately sized waves this is what was happening a little further around the bay.........

............big ugly top to bottom close outs..........

............. following rapidly one after the other.......

with the occasional big barrel if you were game!

Fins can really cut you up!

Considering last years ankle injury at a similar time of the year, an unbelievable incident just a week before the J-Bay round has seen Parko end up in hospital with as nasty a surfing injury as I have seen in a while.

He was riding this wave when he disappeared eventually popping up in the whitewater in agony apparently having been slashed by one of his fins resulting in this appalling and ugly look cut through to the bone.

He is in good hands though and confident he will make the Tahiti round.

There is definitely an OHS advantage for those of us who choose to ride a "Soft Machine"!

Out of towners!

Never surfed here and it was certainly too big and shifty for me to consider today. Much bigger than what they look here with some being well over double overhead. But for these visitors, not a problem. I missed the wave of the day that included a fantastic and quite long stand up barrel!

My first Brown(Uh, that looks blue?)fish!

It arrived yesterday and was made, along with a bunch of others, just before Gary left for Hawaii.

Fantasea Kneeboarding in Slo-Mo!

The silent look and learn slow version and he still looks like he is flying!

Fantasea Kneeboarding!

I was too knocked out, by this amazing footage of GG tearing it up from the 1980 surf classic Fantasea, to not put together a piece for all you kneeboarders out there. Enjoy!

Look and learn slo-mo version coming soon!

2010 WA State Longboard Championships

3 events from the 2nd day of competition of the Denmark round.
Fairly crappy side shore conditions but some very reasonable rides from the Mens Over 35, Mens Over 55 & Open Ladies which features 3 talented local kids!

Never let one piece of equipment define you!

I like that! Brian Keaulana speaking on a vid promoting C4 Waterman products, mainly SUPS of course, although they espouse having fun riding waves on all manner of wavecraft.

He also talks about the waterman creed of balance, strength, endurance and tradition not only in the water but in life too and this is defined perhaps, by his penchant for a little underwater running occasionally.

Do make sure you check out the river rapid riding in the 2nd vid. Good stuff!

SUPs? Well worth a try, so much fun, so versatile and the best favour you can do for your core muscles!

Ahhhhhh............!

Finally we seem to be getting some decently working banks round here again.

For today, 'twas off the mat and on to Big Blue, upon which I was allowed to enjoy a very nice left in front of the currently closed inlet opening, where I recently and joyously spied a really strong rip working it's magic so as I could enjoy today. It was pretty similar to the pic above but without this guy's good looks and style!

A little further over on the next peak......... 30 or so hustling away whilst, where I was, just two of us and eventually for a while just meself! Yee ha!

As "One must ride waves whilst swells untwine", we went back to see if we could get another session, with me hoping to get some more time on the mat, but it was onshore and buggar all swell getting in.

Still, I can go back to work for the next 2 days fulfilled and ready for some more wave riding joy starting on Thursday again with a bit of luck!

Learning to Longboard?

I came across the Longboard Clinic whilst researching the Astron Zot shaped by the irrepressible Geoff McCoy.

I was particularly impressed with the Longboard Clinics How To..... section.

Here is the lesson on how to hang five!

Nikon P100 high speed shots!

I have made this series of shots into a little movie with a couple of stills at the end just to prove that Kieran can actually surf!

Kane blasting off the top!

I love the track he has left in the wave wall behind him showing the speed he had generated before launching himself off the lip!

A big low had finally come through and the swell was already big, if a bit westerly, and on the way up!
A bit bitter and windy, Michelle and I decided today was a lay day but that it was worth having a look anyway as what better way to spend a bit of time than watching waves.
We were not surprised to find Kane out there.
The first time we came across this guy, he was on the way out in absolutely mammoth conditions at another local surf spot and we thought he might actually not get back in. Turns out he surfs it like that all the time and we needn't have worried!

These pics never give you a true idea of the conditions and too be truthful, so far within the protection of the point, the waves were not too big but out on the bay? Mayhem, which you can probably get some idea of in the shot above.

I reckon it will be getting in much more later on in the day and tomorrow too possibly although I would prefer it backed of a bit and lined up beautifully ready for me to surf before returning to work on Tuesday.

I managed to get a few good shots of Kane using my little Nikon P100 which boasts a 26 optical zoom and excellent high speed continuous shooting along with 1080HD video. A pretty awesome little camera for just over $500 AU!

Just a touch of digital zoom in some of these pics too hence the lack of quality.

I think the P100 did well to stop all the spray and movement in this considering it was hand held!

Hardcover Waveriders Volume 1

Sometime ago I discovered that for a really very reasonable price one could acquire a hardcopy of one's blog from Blog2Print.

Just for interests sake, at the time, I ordered a digital copy of my Ramsnake blog.

But my beloved Michelle, who is concerned I might not live long enough to learn to ride a surf mat well, went ahead and ordered a hardcopy of her blog and a damned fine book it turned out to be.

Today she ordered a 2nd volume of her blog so I thought

"What the heck, let's get a hardcopy of the 1st year of Waveriders posts!"

So I have made an order too, the front cover of which is shown above.

Cost $50AU or so..............Bargain!

Well, worth considering for your own blog if you care about what you write.

Now who might have inspired this beautiful fin!

Thanks to Damion

Another type of finless sliding!

I think I am turning into a..............

.......................LDWRA - Lie Down Wave Riding Addict!

Yesterday, it was quite big and lumpy with all the gun short boarders out.

For this SSEOL (Surly stink eyed old longboarder) to compete in a line-up of that nature, I am in the habit of choosing a bodyboard which allows me to easily get plenty of waves. I still have to assert myself when I first get out there, as there is a degree of WGAFATB (Who gives a fuck about the bodyboarder!) and "Oh, what a kook this guy must be not only is he on a bodyboard but he is an old bastard and he wears a helmet!"

Yep, The Buzz Lightyear look!

Anyway, they soon realise I am not there to just bob around like a big black and blue buoy that has escaped it's tether, and having established myself in the pecking order, I was having a terrific time when I accidentally took off, a little later than I normally would, on quite a big steep wave easily making what I had assumed was going to be a wipeout.

I enjoyed it so much, I found myself holding back on subsequent waves, before plunging safely down the face, dragging a fin in the face to temper the momentum and so relishing the feeling of being right in the sucky powerful part of the wave ready for a cover up if it was to occur.

Damn it is good fun and I now find myself looking forward to when the conditions/number of others means I am in for a lie down surf.

Now that is the sort of frustration free wave riding life I like!

Lusciously stunning & evocative!

Heaven or close to it! Every time I visit Daily Bread Surf Photo, I find I am unable not to look again at this beautiful image!!

Great blog - thanks Jason!

So looking forward to joining this exclusive organisation!

The CEO!

The "Fatty" is on the way today!

With thanks to Paipopaipo

Beach walk

Nature the artist? Just love the colour combination and natural shapes!

This is a crab?